Kaçkar Mountains
Do you want to taste more delicious food than at home and 15 different types of cheeses in the Kaçkar Mountains?. Nestled in the heart of Turkey’s UNESCO-protected Macahel Valley, Sevda İyem greets each day with purpose, preparing fresh cheese in the kitchen of her family guesthouse overlooking the lush Kaçkar Mountains. With nimble fingers, she works skillfully, shaping blocks of cheese that will delight her guests later that day. As dawn breaks over the mountains, she heads out to milk her four cows, three of them pregnant, using time-honored techniques that have been passed down for generations.
“I chat with the cows all day long,” Sevda says with a smile, explaining that she can sense their needs through their gestures. In this remote corner of the world, surrounded by unspoiled nature, the simple yet rewarding life Sevda and her husband lead reflects the timeless values of rural Turkish culture. The cows are well cared for in this peaceful alpine Eden, just a short drive from the Black Sea coast. Here, the rhythms of life remain unchanged, with the hardworking women of the region continuing their essential roles in farming and livestock care.
Sevda’s guesthouse is a serene refuge, perched on a hillside with breathtaking views of the valley below. She and her husband, Mevlüt, restored his family’s crumbling home to create this cozy retreat, now offering a peaceful haven for travelers. While they once split their time between Istanbul and the mountains, the couple now calls this picturesque area home year-round, embracing the seasonal rhythms of village life.
The guesthouse, decorated with traditional rugs and crochet placemats, evokes the charm of a bygone era. Guests who arrive here are treated to stunning vistas from every window, with the tranquility of the surrounding nature creating the perfect backdrop for relaxation. But it’s not just the views that leave a lasting impression—Sevda’s home-cooked meals are the real star.
Sevda’s kitchen is much more than just a place to cook—it’s a creative laboratory where she crafts up to 15 different types of cheese. Some are traditional regional varieties, while others are Sevda’s own culinary experiments. “Four are local, traditional types,” explains her interpreter, “but the rest are her own inventions.” Some cheeses are served fresh, while others are aged to perfection. Her creations include surprising flavors, such as cheeses infused with herbs like parsley, dill, or zucchini flowers, and others preserved in oil or seasoned with salt and spices.
In this zero-waste kitchen, economy and sustainability are key. Sevda uses every part of the milk she collects. The cream is saved for breakfast, while the leftover milk is used for bread-making or transformed into new cheeses. Even the last scraps of cheese find new life, boiled in milk to create a delicious new dish.
A traditional Turkish breakfast served at Sevda’s guesthouse is a feast for the senses, offering a generous spread of cheeses made from cow, goat, and sheep milk. The table is brimming with fresh preserves made from local cherries and blackberries, as well as molasses, tahini, and the beloved regional hazelnuts. Fresh bread, cucumber, tomato, olives, and the renowned honey from the area complete the spread, alongside delicate glasses of freshly brewed Turkish tea—a beloved staple in the Black Sea region.
The love and care that Sevda pours into her cooking is evident in every bite. “If I didn’t enjoy it, I couldn’t do it. It would be torture,” she admits. “But I do it with great love.” For Sevda, the joy of sharing her food with others is one of the greatest pleasures of all. Her guests’ happiness is her reward, knowing that they are savoring the fruits of her labor, lovingly prepared in this idyllic corner of the world.
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